fugue fiction one background

Review: Fugue Fiction One Watch

Sellita SW200 élaboré
Veal leather strap with creased edges
Mystery dial with frosted finished or smoked gradient
Sapphire crystal glass
Water Resistance
< 50 metres
Yes - Superluminova
Screw-down crown

The French watch company, Fugue is currently the buzz amongst many watch enthusiasts. If you are wondering what the hailed occasion is, their latest capsule collection called “Fictions” (inspired by literary genres) is now live on Kickstarter. The Paris-based watch company emphasises some generally known themes in the Fugue Fiction One. It is the first of its kind, the first edition of a series of watches prompted by the mystery novel.

This new watch showcases the inspiration behind its designs by employing a mystery dial with an unexpected to show the time. The style of Fiction One radiates Fugue’s blueprint to perfection. The Fiction One has a touch of French refinement and elegance, utilised from the poised champions of the genre evergreen masterworks.

The pivotal detail of the Fugue Fiction One is its hovering hands which have been selected to symbolise the mystery at the centre of this genre of fiction. An unseen power lets them hover in the air and go against the laws of gravity. The creator of this invention is Jean- Eugène Robert Houdin, a French watchmaker born in Blois in 1805. He was a magic aficionado inventing a clock with mysterious gears. He was lauded for his passionate invention and originality. Fugue pays homage to his watchmaking legacy by illustrating this idea again in the Fiction One. Two versions of the Fugue Fiction One are available, named as “Light” and “Dark”.


The Fugue Fiction One ‘Dark’ has a smoked fumé dial, divided into three unique sections. The main section is a light metallic grey, as is the exterior chapter ring with shifting numerals and lumed dots at each five-minute marker. Interceded between them, and detached from the main disc by a glossy set of divagation, another design detail which looks to evolve into a signature of the brand, is the section which has the smoky fumé effect. Even though it is only a fairly small section, this dial colouring fits just as well as the hands at strengthening the ‘mystery’ theme of the timepiece.

fugue fiction one dark
Fugue Fiction One ‘Dark’

The thick and spherical shape of the hour and minute hands purposely display the truth that they do not seem linked to the cannon pinion or hour wheel. Like any good mystery, all secrets are revealed. The watch has a mystery, a bookmark that reveals the constituent parts and assembly, which symbolise the secrets. The hour hand is painted on to the middle dial disc, and the minute hand on a transparent disc overhead. It is a thrilling effect that is not too confusing.

Fugue Fiction One ‘Light’

The dial of the Light version of the Fiction One has the same functionality and dial face. The difference lies in the has aqua coloured lumed hands, minute dots and a vastly modest fumé effect.


The Fugue Fiction One’s case has a diameter of 38mm, lug to lug length of 46mm and a hybrid of smoothed sides and very faint upright brushing on top. The subtle case lets the dial call for attention. Both the dimensions and finishing of the case exhibit the exact degree of moderation. It features a crystal Sapphire glass on top and K1 Sapphire treated exhibition case back.

Fugue Fiction One 'Dark' alternate view
Fugue Fiction One ‘Dark’ alternate view

The case comes off relatively regular at an initial glimpse, but on an intimate assessment, the undisturbed flow from lug tip to lug tip imitates the lines of their previous model. The structure of the case and its silhouette effects are by-products of the modular cases but the proportion and evolutions are much more conventional.

So much thought was put into this watch; the case back has a quote that says, “Time is the Best Killer”. A small touch but impactful. We think the case is brilliantly classic yet simple, not too much and not too little.


Fugue made an essential decision to put together its watches in-house, in France. It has a new batch of technical skills accrued by its founder, who is a trained watchmaker, that will enable the brand to stay invested in community and quality values. The construction depends on elements administered by credible suppliers who have been associates of Fugue right from the beginning, like Sellita in Switzerland for its self-winding movement.

Fugue Fiction One 'Light' Dial Close Up
Fugue Fiction One ‘Light’ Dial Close Up

The Fiction One comes with a fine-tuned Sellita SW200-1 movement, a Swiss calibre based on the ETA 2824-2 inside it. This self-winding movement provides 38 hours of power reserve and, in Elaboré grade as utilised here, the accuracy of +/-7 to +/-20 seconds per day.

Even though the Sellita beats at 28,800 BPH, you won’t notice that here, because there is no running seconds hand on the dial. Another detail of performance given by the SW200-1 in standard structure but not featured here is a date aperture. Its water resistance is 50 metres which is acceptable due to the general lack of features and price point.

Fugue Fiction One Back case
Fugue Fiction One Back case

The calf leather strap is very impressive and fits around the hand so warmly. It has to be one of the most comfortable straps straight out of the box. The strap itself is very simple – black leather with a subtle furrow at the edges and very small taper – but it fits the timepiece nicely. The lug width is 18mm, in case you feel the need to change the strap. The ‘Light’ version of the watch with aqua shaded accents conceivably gives more chance to replace it.


At first glance, many come to conclusions that to get started in the watch hobby or stand out, you have to splurge thousands and thousands of pounds sterling to get an excellent timepiece. Honestly, there are considerable numbers of more affordable options in the marketplace to boost your wrist game and win the attention and respect of even the most revered connoisseurs. The Fiction Fugue One gets approval from watch enthusiasts and it is under £1000 (only €695 – €395 during the pre-sale).

Fugue Fiction One - Dark and Light
Fugue Fiction One – Dark and Light

Not only is the price point a strong positive for this watch, but we really like the added element of the company’s commitment to a good cause. Fugue have partnered with Libraries Without Borders, who aim to spread knowledge and increase literacy across countries where it isn’t easily accessible. To support this, there will be a 4% donation of revenues generate from the sale of the Fiction One. Kudos Fugue.

fugue fiction one background
Review: Fugue Fiction One Watch
Final Thoughts
This new addition from Fugue certainly shows a strong thought process, the simple case and strap is well contrasted with the 'mystery' floating dial and the smoky effect created by the 'Dark' version. With such an impressive price point also, we believe the Fiction One, will certain be a 'bestseller' for avid watch fans who love a good book.
Simple and reliable
Interesting and innovative dial design
Great price point
Good quality lume feature
Lack of features
Lack of strap options
No high jewellery options
Editor's Score
Buy it here