Rolex is a name even those with no interest in watches know. Like Pepsi or Ferrari, the brand is known in all corners of the globe. Even James Bond wore a Submariner. Oh yes, he did. What Bond? you ask, well most of the superstar actors who have portrayed Bond have donned this famous timepiece on their heroic wrists as they battled the bad guys in their bad guy caves. Sean Connery and Roger Moore are the best-known Bond actors with a penchant for Rolex. Pierce Brosnan as Bond used an Omega, a brand still in secret service today. Che Guevara was a Submariner fan. There is nowhere this watch didn’t make an impression.
This particular watch goes under the full name ‘Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner’ and is beloved by those who endeavour to dive underwater as it is waterproof and corrosion-resistant. As a diver, you need confidence in timekeeping given you might run out of oxygen. So a submariner will keep you alive as well as look good for the fish community.
The Submariner started production in 1953 and the wider public first saw it at the Basel Watch Fair in 1954. It has been through model upgrades since, improving on water resistance and internal movement quality respectively. In the late ’60s, this timepiece went from professional to fashion use as the wider world grasped its elegant and robust combination. The silver screen and rebels aside, militaries across the world still use this epic watch as the benchmark timekeeper to do their doings.
As a footnote, It is also one of the most forged watches out there, so be on your guard for telltale signs of it being a knock off. Furthermore, the collection has a complicated array of models spanning its life cycle. Too many to mention here, so let’s stick to the important facts.
Dial
Available in blue, black, and champagne colours and different styles as matt and shiny. The Rolex name and emblem are embossed a little above the centre and a bevelled date register to the right-hand side. All perfectly sized to allow for easy viewing, well you need instant access to information under the ocean. Some watches in the collection have different branding and wording, so be on the lookout for the exact style you want.
Rhinestones are available for that Blingy touch and luminescent hands and numbers for dark glowing contrast. All of these touches complete a remarkable looking watch, designed to class your wrist up a level and grab the attention of people in the know and those ignorant of its esteem.
One famed design point here is the Signature & Mercedes hands. This means the hour hand has a three-point star while the minute hand is a thin stick. Both are gorgeous anyhow. One iteration is called the Maxi Dial by collectors, this is apparent with enlarged lume plots for the hour markers. This is another of the small details which make this watch desirable and difficult for collectors to truly grasp.
Case
The case is made from a solid block of 904L stainless steel. This is a corrosion-resistant alloy. It also comes in ‘golds’ (yes, plural). The golds are available in two forms, white and yellow, and are made in Rolex’s very own foundry. At 40mm, the size isn’t cumbersome but it sure stands out on the wrist.
Now, as we know the water-resistance of this piece is unequalled. This is due to a patented Triplock waterproof crown. A triple gasket system is screwed down tight onto the case to provide extra waterproof protection. The latter reiterations of this timepiece can actually be called ‘waterproof’ as opposed to water-resistant. One can dive to a maximum depth of 300m with those. The early models were thinner and proofed to 200 metres.
Wearability
Well, as Bond and other heroic types deem the Rolex Submariner fit for use then any issues regarding comfort or usability remain largely mute. Having said that, it is a watch and does need to work as such. In this case, it does timekeeping justice. In terms of weight and size, this is not for dainty wrists in all honesty. In true Rolex elegance, the watch is bold and ‘quietly’ loud in its presence, hence it is a little thicker than most watches.
In terms of calibre, the vast differences across the collection stop there. Under the proverbial hood, runs the same engine in all Rolex Submariner wristwatches. And a beautiful one it is too. Robust and delicate in the same measure, it is good enough to power Martini drinking hero types, it is certainly good enough for you.
Powering Rolex watches since 1988, the calibre 3135 is a workhorse made of nano cogs and 31 artisan jewels. The result of this mechanical recipe is 48 hours of reserve power; outgunning nearly all rivals. You will probably never see the silent magic that keeps your delectable Rolex masterpiece ticking. Older timepieces differ in calibre but are still excellent.
As you are reading this, you clearly have a stake in the facts, so without splitting hairs, I introduce the ‘Parachrom hairspring’. This offers a greater level of resistance to shocks and takes care of extreme temperature variations to ensure smooth running. Rhodium-plated brass is a key component to defeat wear and tear over time and stands strong against moisture.
Price
Well. This is where it gets really interesting. Today you can pick a Rolex Submariner for as little as 5000 of your hard-earned dollars. Leaping to the other end of the cost spectrum, one very rare Submariner sold at auction for a smidgen over a Million dollars. This one-off piece is outfitted with the ‘Explorer dial,’ and the colours of lettering on the dial differ to that of the norm.
In the real world, you can expect to pay anything between £6,000 ($7,400) and £30,000 ($37,000) for a collectable new one. Those with a date function carry a premium. These prices can also carry variables such as the condition in regards to scratches and dents if you opt for a pre-owned one. You’ll be hard-pressed to find one which hasn’t been well looked after and serviced regularly.
This timepiece of illustrious fame throughout the human race is a worthwhile investment and a great way to tell the time and others of just how awesome you really are. There are many to choose from and it would be up to you to find the perfect match for your well-healed wrist and you never know, you may even defeat a baddie along the way. This watch will not leave you shaken but will certainly leave you stirred.
